A pottery pitcher holds pink azaleas in the afternoon sunlight

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

The tension between light and dark has long been a metaphor for the battle between good and evil. Do you find joy in sunlit afternoons and feel somehow diminished in the dark of a storm?

To follow Jesus is to follow the light: “Again Jesus spoke to them, saying, ‘I am the light of the world; he who follows me will not walk in darkness, but will have the light of life’” (John 8:12). As you live your life, do you follow the light — finding hope and meaning in the words and teachings of Jesus?

When you have your camera in hand, do you follow the light? Do you chase it, study it, and catch it? Without light, there can be no photography. Without an awareness of light, you can’t think like a photographer.

Look out the window right now. Where is the sun? Is it nighttime? If so, can you see the moon? What it is illuminating for you? Where does the light lead your eye? Train your camera on that spot. Then walk around your subject and see if there’s a better angle. Don’t forget that digital images cost nothing; take lots of them.

Is there a room in your house that gets early morning light? What can you photograph there when you get up in the morning? How about the beautiful golden light of late afternoon/early evening? How can you capture it?

In his blog post on Reflected Light,  artist Altoon Sultan reminds us that, “The illumination of bright sun reveals worlds and lightens our spirits, but its indirect reflection onto surfaces and objects offers a different way of seeing.”

A different way of seeing: would your life and your art benefit from a different way of seeing the world around you?

 
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Next in our series on composition and intent, we will look at another way of dividing photographic intent: Is the subject to be treated in a documentary type way or a more personal, expressive way?

Documentary

If the main intent of the photograph is to simply relay how something looks, composition is not necessarily all that important. After all, mug shots aren’t exactly the most artistically rendered portraits, are they? But they accurately describe how someone looks. While you can employ some artistry in documentary photos, it is the unaltered nature of the subject that defines this look.

Walker Evans, a Depression-era photojournalist, is an interesting example of this type of intent. His biographer, Belinda Rathbone, comments on the wealth of detail in his photographs and writes, “This eclectic mix of information, delivered in even, unspectatular description, exemplified to Evans those photographs that were ‘quiet and true’.”

Expressive

On the opposite end, is the desire to show something “more than” or “beyond” the actual characteristics of the subject — to evoke some kind of mood or emotion in the viewer to help us understand the subject better or to see the subject in a different light.

Elliott Erwitt said “To me, photography is an art of observation. It’s about finding something interesting in an ordinary place…. I’ve found it has little to do with the things you see and everything to do with the way you see them.”

And how you see will impact how you photograph. Do you add motion blur or are you sharply focused? Are you going to make the image a little ambiguous or clear? Simple or complex? These are all questions that run through your mind as your are exploring the subject within the frame and they will determine your composition.

A is for Audi A8

 
night6

Several weeks ago we began a series on composition and intent — the main point being how we should allow our intent in taking the picture to dictate the composition of the photograph rather than blindly following rules. One of the first questions we can ask is how far away from the norm, from the expected, are we willing to go. Do we want to create a predictable and understandable photograph or do we want to challenge the viewer to see something new or different or unexpected?

So what is your intent? Are you trying to clearly show a feature of something? Are you documenting something? Are you trying to make something as attractive as possible? Are you trying to create a postcard picture? Then you will probably want to follow the standard and expected rules of composition: placing your subject somewhere along a 1/3 division or using the most flattering light to show off the subject.

On the other hand, do you want to show your viewer something different about the subject? Do you want to do something a bit more creative or imaginative? Then you can push the rules of composition a little bit. Put your subject in an unusual location or use the light to partially obscure the subject. The problem with this approach is to not be different just for the sake of being different. And it can be very difficult to pull of without looking silly or pretentious.

As Michael Freeman writes, “It is very easy to praise attempts at originality, with some implication that the conventional treatment is ordinary and less imaginative. In fact, this basic advice, to look for the different, is in danger of becoming conventional itself…Different is not necessarily better, and it is a poor goal to aim for without good reason and some skill.”

My photo of the moon is very conventional. It’s placed exactly on a third division in the upper left corner giving it room to “shine” into the frame. Since you can’t really change your perspective of the moon (unless you can hop onto the next shuttle) how would you construct an unconventional composition of the moon?

 
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It’s time for another visit with the Photographic Family. We’ve met Aperture, the baby of the family; and big brother Shutter Speed. Now, we’ll get know ISO.

When I was growing up, my sister — the middle child, more than anyone else — determined whether or not harmony reigned at home. When she was happy, all went smoothly. Getting out the door to church on time? No problem. If she was discontent, however, she needed placating before anything got accomplished.

ISO determines how quickly your camera records an image. On a beautiful sunny day, she is content to lie low (ISO 100 or 200), and everyone’s happy. Shutter Speed and Aperture can garner all of the attention and produce a sharp image practically on their own. When dark clouds dampen the day and you’ve left the tripod at home, or life is moving too fast, you’ll need ISO to contribute more, and she may not be terribly happy about it. Dial her up to 400, 800 or even 1600, and she’ll come to your rescue, making your camera work fast so you can capture a sharp image, but she’ll make you pay. Wanting credit for helping out, ISO will let everyone know that she was working hard by leaving her trademark noise behind in your image. In other words, you’ll get a grainy photo.

These images of my Christmas cactus were taken with my camera in Aperture Priority mode. Using a tripod, I set the Aperture to ƒ/13 and let the camera choose the shutter speed. The above photo was taken with an ISO of 100. Subsequent shots were taken with ISO settings of 400, 800, and 1600. You’ll see that there is no digital noise in the first shot, a hint of it in the second shot, enough to be noticeable in the third shot, and a great deal of it in the final one. (Click one of the images, and you’ll be able to cycle through zoomed-in versions of each.)

 

 
Fuego by Agustín from Madrid, Spain

Almost every beginning photography article about composition begins with a discussion of the importance of the rule-of-thirds. The theory that, after dividing the scene into thirds horizontally and vertically, you should place your subject in the scene at the intersection of those lines. Easy enough. But then, almost right away, they will say that you shouldn’t ALWAYS do that because sometimes a photograph will be stronger when the subject isn’t place accordingly. So, which way is it?

The truth is that your purpose should determine the composition of the image — not the reverse. Do you wish the photograph to be simple or complex? Do you want to convey a conventional point of view or do you want to challenge or surprise the viewer? These considerations should determine how you place your subject in the scene, not some hard and fast rule.

To create a strong image, we have to do more than simply react to a scene. We should understand the intent behind our reaction to take a picture and then plan the composition — moving around and adjusting the scene filling the viewfinder as necessary. What is it in the scene that caught our eye and what is it that we want to convey. Taking time to do this will move your final image from a mere snapshot to something more meaningful. It was Edward Weston that said “composition is the strongest way of seeing.” Take the time to see.

Michael Freeman, in his book The Photographer’s Eye, groups different kinds of “intent” into contrasting pairs. Is your intent to be:

  • conventional or challenging?
  • reactive or planned?
  • documentary or expressive?
  • simple or complex?
  • clear or ambiguous?

I think it would be interesting to take each pair and look at them over the next couple of weeks. In the meantime, it would be an interesting exercise to look back through your images and see if you can classify them into one type of intent or the other. I know that I am much more prone to be conventional and reactive (happily snapping away from a safe vantage point) even though I’d like to think I’m challenging and ambiguous.

Take a look at your work and see. Photographically speaking, what’s your intent?

Today our featured image is from Agustín in Madrid. He captured an incredible sunset and in my opinion his photo is both amazingly simple and wonderfully expressive. And he didn’t follow the rule-of-thirds!

 
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As photographers we recognize the importance of light. The color, quality and amount of light determine the mood and feel of the photograph.

But what about the shadows? There is no better way to heighten the sense of drama in a picture than to let the shadows go to a deep and mysterious black.

In technical terms this is called chiaroscuro and it has a long fan list of famous artists: Caravaggio, Rembrandt, Goya. It is an Italian word meaning “light dark”, and it is used to describe the balance of light and dark in a painting done with strong contrasts for a dramatic effect.


This look is easier to accomplish than you think thanks to the low dynamic range of most digital camera sensors. Whereas our eyes can see details in the bright sunlight and the deep shadows at the same time (about 24 f-stops apart), most sensors can only see 10-12 f-stops apart.

To achieve this look, expose for the highlights — find the brightest part of the image and meter off of that area. It helps to have your camera meter set to center-spot or center-weight average. As Cheryl advised, “read your manual!” Exposing for the bright subject effectively causes the shadows to become blocked, showing little to no detail. Some may consider this a technical flaw in a photo but I think is strongly depends on the mood you are trying to evoke. Boosting the contrast in post-processing will enhance this look.

As we focus on light this week, I challenge you to also keep in mind the shadows and look for ways to focus on them and boost the drama.

 
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A couple of weeks ago, I introduced the concept of thinking about Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO as siblings, and I described Aperture as the baby of the family. Today, I’d like to present Shutter Speed, the eldest of the three.

Like a responsible big brother, Shutter Speed keeps track of the time, making sure nobody stays out too late. Shutter Speed refers to the length of time the shutter is open and is measured in seconds and fractions of seconds.

As you can imagine, a Shutter Speed of 1/4000 sec. is lightning quick. It gives your camera very little time to record an image. In bright daylight this is not a problem, because your camera doesn’t need much time to capture an image. A fast Shutter Speed and plenty of light is like a big brother at the top of his game — a quick glance here or there, and he doesn’t miss a trick, no matter how quickly the little ones are scurrying about.

When it starts to get dark, however, Shutter Speed becomes less adept at keeping a steady eye on things. He needs to slow down and take a long look. Relying on a quick glance now will likely cause him to the miss the details, like a younger sibling or two hiding in the bushes. When he slows down, he’ll take in all the details, but if there’s too much movement —from the subject or the hands holding the camera — images will get blurry.

These shots of ornaments on my Christmas tree were taken with the camera on a tripod, so movement was not an issue. I set the ISO to 200 and the ƒ-stop to 5.6. I took the first picture with a moderately fast Shutter Speed of 1/13 sec. This was much too fast, since little more than the colored lights show up in the image.

In the next picture, I set the shutter speed to 1 sec. Without a tripod, it would be nothing but a blur. Thanks to my trusty tripod’s steadiness, though, I was able to record a good image, with plenty of detail and nice balance between the highlights and shadows.

In my third ornament photo, I blew out the highlights with a long shutter speed of 15 sec. I’m back to losing lots of detail. This time, it’s lost in the light, not the dark. With my shutter open for such a long period of time, too much light entered the camera and washed out the image.

There is no one correct Shutter Speed for a given situation. It’s really up to you. Leaving the shutter open for a little longer than your light meter suggests may nudge the amount of captured light just enough to give your image a happy, light-hearted feel. Choosing a shorter Shutter Speed will make your photo darker, but it will also likely give you richer colors. Play around. Take the same shot with three or four different Shutter Speeds and see which one you like best. The image that appeals to you the most may just surprise you and help you begin to develop your own unique style.

 
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For today, I have a favor to ask of you, dear reader. What software do you use for editing photos? Do you use anything for managing your photos?

I received the upgrade to LightRoom 3 for Christmas and just haven’t had time to play with it yet. But one of the aspects of the software that I would really like to use this year is the keyword “tagging” feature. I am very bad and do not keyword my photos. So I have an 8000 photo database that is only able to be searched by date of photo. If I’m looking for something specific, it can take me a long time to find it.

I promised myself that this year I would tag each photo during import. It’s my one New Year’s resolution. How about you? What photographic resolutions do you have for the coming year? Why not leave a comment? And please take a second (literally!) to answer the survey question. Thanks!!

 
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While it’s possible to create a very good photograph with a camera’s auto mode, it’s not much fun, and it tends to limit the creative possibilities. Adjusting aperture, shutter speed and ISO settings provides near limitless options for capturing images. I like to think of these three factors as siblings.

Aperture is the bossy baby sister who always gets her way, or else. This setting refers to the size of the lens opening and is measured in ƒ-stops. If Aperture’s wide open (ƒ/5.6 or even ƒ/2.0, depending on the lens), she’ll let in lots of light and make it relatively easy to get a good shot. When she’s in such a playful mood, though, she tends to be careless, scattering light all around. While she’ll be happy to concentrate on whatever has caught her attention (the focus area), she’ll ignore everything else, leaving a mess in the background. If Aperture’s wide open to possibility, she can help you create beautiful portraits and stunning images featuring shallow depth of field — the area of sharpness (from near to far) within a photo.

When Aperture closes herself off in a bad mood (ƒ/16 or ƒ/22, perhaps), she lets in very little light, but she focuses it carefully, making sure everything gets recorded clearly. If Aperture’s feeling small, she will help you capture a scene that seems to go on forever, such as a landscape that encompasses the tree in the foreground and the mountains in the distance.

My three Scrabble photos were taken with my camera in Aperture Priority Mode, using a 50mm macro lens. Each image is SOOC (straight out of the camera). For Photo No. 1, I set the aperture to ƒ/2.0 and got a very shallow depth of field, with only a sliver of the blue game piece in focus.

The aperture in Photo No. 2 is set to ƒ/8, and I got the gameboard from front to back, but only the front portion is in focus.

I set the aperture to ƒ/22 for Photo No. 3 and got most of the gameboard in focus.

Without a doubt, aperture is the variable I look at first when I start shooting. In fact, I generally leave my camera in Aperture Priority Mode, because deciding whether I want shallow, medium or wide depth of field is my initial consideration when composing a picture. Shutter speed is generally the next factor I take into account, and I’ll introduce that member of the Photographic Family in the coming weeks.

In the meantime, I hope my brief introduction to Aperture leaves you wanting to know her better so that you pick up your camera, turn the dial to manual mode or aperture priority, and start shooting.

 
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When I was a kid, my brother, sister and I loved watching The Brady Bunch. Remember the opening segment, with the heads and shoulders of Mike, Carol, Greg, Marcia, Peter, Jan, Bobby, Cindy and Alice inside a grid of nine rectangles? Well, that grid is an important tool for taking great pictures.

While it can be tempting — and may seem logical — to center your subject in a photo, it is seldom the best choice. Unless your subject fills the frame, centering it will leave too much space around it, resulting in an unbalanced picture. Your eye will go directly to the subject: smack-dab in the middle and then … stop. There likely won’t be much to lead your eye around the image.

In this photo, my dog Caddie is just about centered. She’s surrounded by grass, leaves and fence. The picture is boring, and its subject is too small. Not many details in Caddie’s face come through.

This picture of my daughter’s piggy bank is about as minimal as the photo of my dog, but the bank is placed in the left third (almost half) of the frame. It’s the largest element and the focal point, so it draws me in. After my eye has focused on the pig, however, it will go down to the blurry quarters in the foreground, then follow them back and to the right. I’ll look at the entire photo, because my eye will be led around the image.

 

Here is an illustration of the grid. When placing your subject in the photo, aim for the left, right, top or bottom third of the frame, or one of the hot spots: those purple circles at the intersections. To ensure that your subject will be in focus, center your subject in the viewfinder, hold the shutter button down about halfway (you’ll probably hear a beep), move the camera to recompose the shot with the subject off-center, and press the shutter button the rest of the way to take the picture.

 
Candles, fruit and basket in the surrounding dark

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

I remember being very intimidated when I was handed my first SLR camera. I had recently graduated from college and was working as a reporter for my hometown newspaper. It was a weekly, and there was a photographer on staff — in fact, she was my friend, but the editor knew there would be instances where I’d have to shoot my own photos. My photographer friend gave me a quick lesson or two on the workings of the camera, and I spent a little time practicing. Since then, I’ve fallen in love with photography and have shot more than 50,000 photos. I’m starting to figure things out.

Some of the fundamentals I’ve learned, so far:

Graves, fence and trees in sepia

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

1. Read the manual that came with your camera. Don’t roll your eyes. Have you really read the manual? Photography is both an art and a science, but the individual tools associated with it are just that — individual. My Olympus undoubtedly has features your Nikon does not, and your Nikon is not the same as your friend’s Canon. If nothing else, reading the manual may inspire you to try something new, which leads me to …

Balloons in the sun

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

2. Spend time with your camera. If you pick it up only to record your son’s birthday party or to snap a shot of the Christmas tree, how will your skills improve? How will you learn to take beautiful flower shots if you focus only on panoramic landscapes?

A US flag waving in the wind near a lake

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

A little blond-haired girl wearing necklaces looking down, with sunlight on her hair

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

3. Don’t be afraid to make mistakes. One of the great advantages of digital photography is that taking 200 pictures will cost you no more than taking 20 pictures. (This flag photo is one of many that I shot, and it is most definitely not the best of the bunch.)

4. Look at your subject from different angles. A shot of your child’s beautiful face may be the logical choice, but what details and nuances will you pick up if you get behind her or wait until she’s looking down?

A wet yellow and red tulip surrounded by black

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

5. Don’t be afraid of the flash. While natural light is a wonderful thing, hitting a tulip with a flash may bring out drama you never dreamed was there.

A high-key image of a fuschia Christmas cactus blossom

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

6. Have fun. Try unexpected angles, close crops and letting in tons of light. The results may surprise and please you.

An aqua-colored sewing machine with fabric and thread

Photo by Cheryl Doyle-Ruffing

7. Take your time. Yes, you can clean up your images in Photoshop, but if you take the time to get the shot right in-camera, you’ll save yourself minutes later and improve your skills as a photographer.

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